Gray Hair Coloring
There are more options available today for covering gray hair than there were a generation ago. At Gerard Bollei Salon, we offer a full selection of classical choices, including semi-permanent single or double-process color, highlights, glazes, baliage and 100% natural henna. For those of you who wish to retain your gray, our Master Color Team offers a complete menu of trendy options.
A Few of Our Classic Choices
If your gray hair has just started to show, we suggest using a semi-permanent color to match the rest of your hair color to “fill in” the gray hairs. This method requires a touch-up every few months.
If you want to go slightly lighter, we could place highlights in and around the gray to create a brighter, more youthful look.
If you have over 50% gray, we would cover it with a whole head of highlights, and then cover the rest of the unfoiled hair with a dark blonde. The result is the au courant blonde-on-blonde that is always in fashion.
For Premature Grays…Embrace the Latest Trend! – NYC is abuzz about the newest Going Gray movement: many young clients with prematurely gray hair are choosing to grab onto the gray instead of losing it. Our color experts offer a number of options:
- Leave the gray as a highlight shade, but jazz it up with a silvery platinum shade
- Color your non-gray hairs with either a complimentary darker shade of brown or ebony
- Go all the way by changing all your hair into tones of gray, platinum, and silver
- Choose Platinum Plus and be your own Lady Gaga!
Going Gray is definitely not the beauty tragedy it used to be… at least it isn’t at Gerard Bollei Salon!
If you are going gray, read Angela Haupt’s article for U.S. News & World Report, Gray Hair at 25? Yes. Here’s What You Can Do, after Anne Marie’s Tips and Options for Gray Hair below.
MASTER COLORIST ANNE MARIE’S
TIPS and OPTIONS FOR GRAY HAIR…
Today, the average person begins to gray as early as their twenties, based upon several factors including the environment, stress levels, and just plain genetics. Women (and men) who gray younger do not view this as aging, but as a problem that needs to be solved and an excuse to experiment with hair color. The underlying reality of gray hair, however, is that very few end up with naturally beautiful silvery-white hair that looks youthful and gorgeous. Luckily, there are many viable options available to those whose graying begins at any age.
One of the most popular techniques is multi-shading for blonds, brunettes, or redheads. When the hair grows, the lightest strands will blend into the gray, allowing the line of demarcation to be less noticeable. Depending on the degree of lightness or darkness, this technique allows 6 to 12 weeks between touch ups.
For those with less than 25% gray who do not want any major changes, I recommend using a semi-permanent color similar to your natural shade to blend in the grays. This allows 6 to 9 weeks between touch ups.
Color weaves in medium to heavy highlights are a subtle way to blend away the gray. Depending on the final desired look and the degree of lightness, this can be done with bleach or color. This process allows 2 to 3 months between touch ups.
Salt and pepper gray hair can be enhanced by adding medium to heavy silver streaks using a technique called Pearlizing, which strategically places silvery-white streaks in those areas that will best brighten the hair and face.
This will allow you to be naturally gray, but prettier and brighter.
This works best on those with silky hair, Nordic complexions and blue eyes and allows 2 to 3 months between retouches.
A technique known as Low-lighting adds dark streaks to particular areas in the shade of your natural color. Leaving a few subtle white strands makes the color more believable and long lasting, and turns the clock back to when you just started graying. You can go 2-3 months before retouching.
This method works best on men since complete coverage on shorter hair makes it look artificial; however, men will need retouching more frequently.
The easiest method to cover gray is a single process blond. A light shade of blond is applied all over and processed for a specific amount of time. If the right formulation is applied, you can achieve a natural looking color with beautiful highlights. The salt and pepper in the hair will color differently, leaving the hair naturally shaded. This process needs to be retouched every 4-6 weeks.
Everyone thinks that gray hair is resistant and difficult to color – it is not the gray that is the problem, but the formulation. If the hair is more than 50% gray, the formula should be half a shade to a whole shade darker with neutral and gold pigments. Stay away from anything ash since there will not be enough pigment to cover the white, and the end result will be transparent or supply no coverage at all.
You can extend the time in between touch ups by using various color mascaras or color wands such as Color Mark, or if you feel more ambitious you can use one of the popular brands of root touch ups. I suggest you use a color lighter than your formula and blend your roots, rather than try to completely cover the gray and run the risk of making the results too dark. I recommend that you color the areas that are visible such as your part and hairline; trying to do more will most likely interfere with your next coloring.
To dispel a common myth, gray hair is not any coarser than pigmented hair; it only appears that way because the white strands stand out. If you had thick coarse hair before you started to gray, you’ll have the same texture after you gray. If your hair was limp and fine, it will still be limp and fine after graying. To help control gray hair, use a small amount of shampoo on the scalp only and rinse thoroughly. Additionally, I recommend using a small amount of conditioner on only the hair shaft – wait until the hair absorbs it and rinse out any excess. This method leaves the hair balanced: a clean scalp and supple moisturized shaft yielding plenty of body, and ease in styling with very little product. For extra smoothness, you may apply silicone oil to the hair shaft before and after styling.
“To color or not to color,” is the question that many gray-haired women ask themselves. I believe that no matter how beautiful your gray or silver hair appears, it automatically signals that you are mature and adds an extra 10-15 years to your age. If you opt to keep the gray, your beautiful hair cannot be your only asset. You must be impeccably dressed, your clothes current, your makeup perfect, and your hairstyle smooth and chic. If not, you risk looking old and sloppy. All of these factors must be assessed in deciding what to do when those sneaky white strands first start making their appearance!
Gray Hair at 25? Yes. Here’s What You Can Do
If you’ve come early to the graying game, blame genetics. How you cope, however, is up to you
By Angela Haupt for U.S. News & World Report
There’s something to be said for turning into a silver fox. They’re distinguished. Dapper. And … 25? Indeed. Even teens and young adults can go gray, from a few streaks here and there to a full-on head of white. ….
The bad news: The premature graying problem is largely genetic. Hair follicles contain pigment cells that produce melanin, which gives your tresses their color. When your body stops generating melanin, hair presents itself as gray, white, or silver. (Melanin also provides moisture, so when less is produced, hair becomes brittle and loses its bounce.) …. Race and ethnicity play a role in the graying timeline, too: Whites typically start to notice gray strands around age 35, while African-Americans tend to be 40 when it begins. …. Still, more tangible factors could be at play. Poor nutrition, for example, is thought to affect the production of melanin. Specifically, that means getting too little protein, vitamin B12, and the amino acid phenylalanine. Maintaining a balanced, healthy diet could help keep color robust. (As for that old theory that stress triggers gray, though? No scientific proof supports it.) Occasionally, an underlying medical condition could be to blame. ….
While there’s not much you can do to stop or slow the graying process, you can decide how to deal with it: keep it, get rid of it, spruce it up. “Age doesn’t matter when you see those first gray strands,” says Anne Marie Barros, a master colorist at Gerard Bollei Salon in New York. “But unlike the limited, damaging choices of yesteryear, today’s treatments range from the understated to the dramatic and everything in between. Most of my younger clients start to have fun with the range of choices, which cancels out their initial angst.” ….
If you’re determined to bring back the brown (or black or red or blonde), all-over color is the most common and perhaps simplest solution. Or go the highlights route: These can be “very fine strands that add a hint of color and shine to dull, mousy gray, or they can be bold and bright and contrast with other colors,” Barros says. Rather than concealing it, a growing number of women are visiting the salon to enhance their gray. That means adding strategically placed silver or platinum strands throughout the head, particularly around the face. “Think of it as going gray glamorously,” Barros says.
Sound like too much maintenance? You could—gasp—embrace the gray instead. Because gray hair tends to be dry and dull, at the very least, stock up on specially-designed brightening shampoos. To quench parched strands, try a leave-in conditioner. In Barros’ view: “If you choose to go gray, you must have a current cut and style, and be well-groomed at all times.” ….
To read the full U.S. News & World Report article click here